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Author Topic: 1995 VS 1400 Handlebar swapping STEP-BY-STEP (19 messages, Page 1 of 1)
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bigskytruder

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Bike: VS1400

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Posted: May 4, 2008 09:52 AM  (Msg. 1 of 19)         

CHANGING OUT THE OL’ BUCKHORN HANDLEBARS
1995 VS1400 SUZUKI INTRUDER WITH INTERNAL WIRES

INTRODUCTION



Tired of the fit of those old Buckhorn style handlebars?   I was.  My wife has a 2004 VS800 Suzuki Intruder and her handlebars were noticeable wider and flatter and more comfortable to the throttle wrist and arm.  I also had the pleasure of sitting on a later model VS1400 Intruder with flatter and wider bars and the difference was very noticeable.  I decided to switch my older style Buckhorn style handlebars for the newer style of OEM Suzuki handlebars.

I did some research and found that in 2000, Suzuki changed to external wiring and offered two styles of handlebars for the VS1400.  I looked at numerous schematic drawing searches for the 2000 VS1400 Suzuki Intruder and found only 2 styles of handlebars for that year. One style is the flat, short drag bar and the other style of handle bar is the wider and flatter style of handlebar that I was looking for.  I found the Suzuki Part number to be 56111-38E00.

To confirm this was the correct part number. I did some more schematic drawing searches for the 2004 VS800 Suzuki Intruder, since that was the motorcycle my wife has, and found only 2 styles of handlebars for that year.  One style was the short flat drag style of handlebar and the other was the wider, flatter style of handlebar that was on my wife’s VS800 that I was looking for. The Suzuki Part number for this handlebar was found to be 56111-38E00. Hey, they are the same handlebar!

I looked around some on e-bay and other locations to try and find a pair of cheap replacement handlebars but never found any.  I decided to not go with a set of used bars, thinking they may have been compromised in a wreck or for some other reason so I decided to purchase a new set.  I looked around various web sites and found a range from over $100.00 to just under $80.00.  Also, don’t forget to purchase a new set of grips at this point if you want new grips or replacement grips.  The throttle side of your old set will slip right off but the clutch side grip is glued on so you might want to get a replacement for that grip unless you are willing to wrestle off the old glued on grip.  I glued my ISO grip on before so it would never come off so I just bought a new set of ISO grips (Kuryakyn Part Number 6235).

This write –up provides the how-to for removing and installing the new 5611-38E00 OEM wider Suzuki Handlebars.

REMOVING THE OLD BUCKHORN HANDLEBARS

Place protective covers of the top of the fuel tank and the front fender to keep from scratching and dinging up the paint.

Remove any accessories that you might have on your handlebars, such as Mounts, clocks, cup holders, etc.

If you have a windshield, remove the windshield completely from the motorcycle to provide sufficient access to be able to work on your handlebar replacement.

Remove the front break lever, right hand mirror assembly by using a flat bladed screwdriver and prying the plastic cover off the top of the screw heads on the two screws on the rear side of the handlebars.  This will expose the allen head cap screws under these covers.  Use an allen wrench to remove the two screws. Set the rear side of the cap and the screws aside for re-installation latter.  Remove the brake lever assembly with the brake fluid housing and support the reservoir in an upright manner.

Repeat the same step on the left hand side of the motorcycle to remove the clutch handle and clutch fluid reservoir.



Remove the Positive lead of from the battery so no power will be available to the electrical system.

Remove the back of the switch housing on the right side of the motorcycle by using a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws located on the front side of the switch housing.  Pull the back of the switch cover upwards and use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the slug on the end of the throttle cable out from the plastic throttle sleeve. This will allow the throttle cable to be moved out of the way. Remove the rear of the switch cover and set the cover and screws aside for re-installation later. Take note of how the front part of the switch housing mounts to the rear of the handlebar with the wires exiting the handlebars and twisting underneath the handlebars to enter into the switch housing.




Remove the left side switch housing the same as the step above.




IDENTIFICATION AND UNCONNECTING ELECTRICAL WIRES

Remove the headlight by using a Phillips head screwdriver and removing the two screws found on the lower back portion of the headlight bucket. Remove the headlight assembly by unplugging the three pronged electrical connection going to the back of the headlight, set the headlight aside.

Remove the rectangular cover found directly below the backside of the headlight bucket.  Use a Phillips screwdriver and remove the four screws here.  Set the screws and rectangular cover aside. The removal of this cover allows room to pull the two bundles of wires through the back side of the headlight bucket.

Remove and unwind the wires bundled up inside the headlight bucket.

Locate the wires that are connected to the switch on the left side of the handle bars by wiggling and pushing the wire bundle coming out of the bottom of the left handlebar riser. Follow that bundle of wired where it enters through the back of the headlight bucket. On my Intruder it was the bundle Of wires with the blue colored tape on the end of it in the headlight bucket.  All the individual wires in that bundle must be disconnected so that bundle of wires can be removed. (We had 9 wires to disconnect on this side) We used Avery label stickers and labeled each end of each connection so we would know how to hook the individual wires back to the proper locations.


Perform the same as above to locate the wire bundle for the switch on the right hand of the handle bars.   On my Intruder this wire bundle was marked with a yellow colored tape around the end of the wire bundle in the headlight bucket. Disconnect the individual wires on this side, taking care to label them so they can be put back in the right locations. (We found 5 individual wires to disconnect on this side)




Pull the right hand and left hand bundles of wire out through the back side of the headlight bucket. (In order to not lose the labeling we put on each individual wire, BSC had the idea to wrap those loose wires in glad wrap or saran wrap to keep them in a tight bunch and to protect the labeling.  After wrapping the individual wires in the saran wrap, wrap them with electrical tape to keep them in a group similar to the black covering on the bunched wire bundles.)


REMOVE THE BUCKHORN HANDLEBARS


Remove the plastic caps for the handlebar clamps on the top of the handlebar risers. Use an allen wrench to remove the four each screws in the handlebar clamps.








Remove the old handlebars by pulling them upward while feeding the bunched wired for the right and left hand sides up through the risers. Notice the raised nub on the top of the risers that keep the handlebars from rotating.  This stops the handlebars from rotating so the side of the hole in the handlebars for the wires can’t cut any wired if the handlebars were able to rotate freely.

REMOVING THE CABLE BUNDLES FROM THE BUCKHORN HANDLEBARS

Remove the switches and the wire bundles from the old set of handlebars by pulling from the switch end while having a partner feeding, pushing and twisting the wire bundle from the other end of the wire bundles.  We used some spray on silicone that we had and the old wire bundles slipped right out of the old handle bars.




MARKING AND FITTING THE NEW HANDLEBARS

Place duct tape or scotch tape onto the new handlebars in the riser area as shown in the picture. Place the handle bars into the risers and slightly use the top handlebar clamps to secure the handle bars.  You might use 3 or 4 layers of scotch tape to allow for proper thickness to get an “indentation mark.”



  RIDE EM SAFE  


CHECK YOUR SIX

bigskytruder

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Posted: May 4, 2008 09:53 AM  (Msg. 2 of 19)         

Now sit in the saddle and rotate the new handlebars until the feel comfortable for the height of the bars.  Don’t forget to make any slight adjustments for thicker grips and gloves that may be utilized in this step.  Once you have found the comfort spot for locating the location of your new handlebars, lightly tighten the clamps down on the risers.  Get off the motorcycle and take a 5 minute break.  Get back onto the motorcycle and grab the handlebars and see if that is the natural, comfortable position for your new bars.  If this handlebar location is not satisfactory, adjust them some more until you are sure.  If when the new handlebars are in the proper location, tighten down the riser clamp good and snug.  This should make the “impression mark” into the tape.  In addition, try to mark the location of the nub on the underneath side of the handlebars on the tape with a Sharpie pen.  Ensure the grips will have sufficient room to clear the top of the fuel tank with the handlebars turned to the sides.







Remove the handlebars from the claps in the top of the risers and ensure there is an impression of a mark for locating the inner end of the nubs on both risers. From the inside end of the nub lay out a slotted hole that will be approximately 7/8” long and 7/16” to ½” wide on the scotch tape. This layout and marking is to drill new holes in the riser clamp portion of the handlebars for the new bars to fit the nubs and for the holes to install the wire bundles through the new handlebars and into the risers.

DRILLING HOLES IN THE NEW HANDLEBARS

Once the centers of the two holes are located from your layout, use a center-punch and mark those locations of the holes through the scotch tape.  Remember you are marking a total of 4 holes to be drilled. Use caution when center-punching these holes and only hit the punch enough to give you a good depression.  If you use a little more aggressive stroke to the center-punch you risk making the handlebars out of round and then they will not fit down into the risers properly.  Don’t ask me how I know this, just be sure and heed the warning.

Use a sharp drill and begin drilling with a small pilot hole.  Now increase drill bit sized as needed to finish drilling out the four holes to 7/16” or ½”.  One all four holes have been drilled I used a dremel tool with a cut-off blade and cut the remaining material out between the two each drilled holes to make a longer slotted hole.  I then used a dremel tool with a grinding wheel to grind off all the sharp edges around the slotted holes to be able to safely pull the cable bundles back through these holes without worry of cutting the cables.

Now the left and right hand bar ends will also require new holed to be drilled so the cable bundles can exit the new handlebars and get to the switch housings.  The new bars I received had a small hole existing near the grip ends of the new handlebars.  This small hole is there to mate up with the prong that protrudes out of the switch housings and keeps this part of the housing from rotating.  I took measurements from the old buckhorn bars for the placement and size of the new holes to be drilled for the switch housings.  The holes appeared to be approximately 1/8” from the existing smaller hole in the bars, and were a slotted hole approximately 7/16” by 1” log, with the top of the slotted hole even with the top of the small hole.

I used painters tape again and laid these holes out on the handlebars, then used a center-punch lightly to mark these holes.  I drilled them by starting with a pilot hole and progressing up to the 7/16” drill bit for these four holes.  I again used the dremel tool with the cut-off blade and removed the remaining material between each of the two drilled holes to make the long slotted holes.  A grinding wheel in the dremel was used to remove any sharp ends and to smooth out the sides of both holes so the cable bundles would not be damaged.









Test fit the new handlebars to ensure they will fit down into the risers and over the existing nubs on the risers properly.  Rework as required to ensure the new handlebars fit the risers before proceeding further.

PULLING THE CABLE BUNDLES INTO THE NEW HANDLEBARS

We tied a small nut onto a string and lowered the nut into the drilled slotted hole at the right hand switch end of the new handlebars.  Using a magnet we were able to get the nut and string out of the slotted hole for the right hand riser.  We attached the other end of the string to the cable bundle that goes to the kill switch housing. Using two people, gently keep a light tension on the pull string while the other person pushes and twists the cable bundle until the cable bundle is completely pulled through the right hand side of the new handlebars.

Perform this activity to pull the left hand side cable bundle through the left hand side of the new handlebars.




INSTALLING THE NEW HANDLEBARS


Lower the new handlebars while feeding the cable bundles down through the existing holes in the existing risers until the new handlebars and resting on the risers. Install a riser cap temporarily to support the handlebars.

Take each cable bundle exiting the bottom of each riser and insert them through the opening into the backside of the headlight bucket.

Remove any materials that you used to maintain the individual wires in a bundle earlier.


RECONNECTING THE ELECTRICAL WIRES

Reconnect the electrical wires by using the matching numbers on the Avery labels and second checking them by the wire colors.  Double check each connection for tightness and for correct numbers on your labeling or the color of the wires.

Tuck the wire bundles back into the headlight bucket and secure them with the wire keepers to provide enough room for the headlight.

Install the headlight into the headlight bucket using the two Phillips headed screws to secure the headlight retainer ring.

Install the rectangular cover onto the backside of the headlight bucket using the four each screws.

FINAL INSTALLATION OF THE HANDLEBARS, SWITCHES, LEVERS AND GRIPS


Install both handlebar riser clamps and tighten the four each allen headed cap screws tightly.  Consider using blue colored lok-tite on these screws.

Install the right hand grip with the throttle sleeve along with the switch housing.  Remember to install the nub on the switch housing into the small hole provided in the new handlebars. Install the stub on the end of the throttle cable into the top hole in the throttle sleeve, then install the front cover of the switch housing and tighten the two Phillips headed screws to secure this switch housing.

Install the left hand switch housing by aligning the nub in the switch housing in the existing hole in the new handlebars.  Tighten the front portion of the switch housing to the larger half by using the two Phillips head screws.

Install the hand brake lever on the right hand side of the new handlebars and the hand clutch lever on to left hand side of the new handlebars.  Use the back side of the hand lever clamps and the cap headed screws and install these in a loose condition.

Use sandpaper or other means to roughen up the left hand portion of the new handlebars for the installation of the left hand grip.  Use your preference of adhesive and install the left hand sided grip.

Sit back in the saddle and adjust the mirrors by loosening the lever clamp hex head cap screws and reposition them, as well as the mirror stem nuts so the mirrors can be adjusted to work with their new positioning on the new handlebars. Tighten both the mirror stem nuts and the hand lever cap screws when the mirrors have been properly adjusted.

Reinstall the windshield if one was previously installed on your motorcycle.

Reinstall any other mounts and gadgets onto the new handlebars.

Re-connect the positive battery cable to the battery.

POST NEW HANDLEBAR INSTALLATION ELECTRICAL CHECK

Shift motorcycle into neutral and turn the key on.

Check to make sure headlight is illuminated.

Check to make sure indicator lights are working properly.

Start the motorcycle and allow it to run for a while. Then turn off the motorcycle using the red kill switch to make sure that switch is functioning properly.

Restart the motorcycle.

Check the right hand and left hand turn signal lights in the front and the back of the motorcycle.

Check the high beam and low beam of the headlight to make sure it is working.

Check the hand lever brake to see if the brake light on the rear illuminates.

Turn the motorcycle off by using shifting into gear and lower the kickstand.


  RIDE EM SAFE  


CHECK YOUR SIX

bigskytruder

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Posted: May 4, 2008 09:58 AM  (Msg. 3 of 19)         

ENJOY YOUR NEW AND BETTER FITTING HANDLEBARS

Please be cautions when first riding with the new handlebars as you will find numerous differences.

Cornering will be different.

Locations of the controls for signals, horn, and headlights will be in a different location;

Locations of the mirrors will be different and different viewing will be present with the newer mirror locations.









Since I figured out how to do this handlebar swap out, you should be able to do it with no problems now!!    Drop me a note and let me know if this helps anyone out with their swap


  RIDE EM SAFE  


CHECK YOUR SIX

Daveguy

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Posted: May 4, 2008 12:00 PM  (Msg. 4 of 19)         

bigskytruder,

Excellent pictures and information.  Great job!


David


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rlefig

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Posted: Mar 22, 2009 01:37 PM  (Msg. 5 of 19)         

Great write up bigsky, where did you get these bars. I have my old buckhorns off and need to get new ones on.

thanks

rob


bigskytruder

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Posted: Mar 22, 2009 02:22 PM  (Msg. 6 of 19)         

I bought my new Suzuki OEM handlebars from Oneida Suzuki and had them in a few days.  Oneida was the cheapest, and unlike others on here, I have never had a problem with Oneida Suzuki.


  RIDE EM SAFE  


CHECK YOUR SIX

rlefig

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Posted: Mar 23, 2009 12:07 PM  (Msg. 7 of 19)         

I ordered mine from them as well. Thanks, it sounds like these will be much more comfortable than the buckhorns

rob


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Posted: Mar 23, 2009 12:54 PM  (Msg. 8 of 19)         

GOOD JOB!


Prince

The American Indians found out what happens when.....
you don't control immigration.


Save the earth..... I think it's the only planet with chocolate!






rlefig

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Posted: Mar 23, 2009 09:49 PM  (Msg. 9 of 19)         

Well almost a good job, everything is back ordered, and it supposed to finally be warm, I knew I shouldn't have started this. I was going to use other bars but did not like them.

rob


luky

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Posted: Jul 31, 2009 01:12 AM  (Msg. 10 of 19)         

I really liked this handlebar story.

I really wanted to get rid of those narrow buckhorn bars and
the ones you selected are perfect.

Thanks so much for all the work you put into this article.


Phred2

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Posted: Aug 14, 2009 03:03 PM  (Msg. 11 of 19)         

Thanks for the excellent write up. My new bars came in yesterday and I'm going get started on the changeover tonight with these instructions.  


woodsnake

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Posted: Mar 19, 2011 07:48 PM  (Msg. 12 of 19)         

That was an excellent write up, good job! Thanks for posting it!


ScorchTX

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Posted: Sep 9, 2011 09:47 PM  (Msg. 13 of 19)         

Nice job!


Suzuki's Power Cruiser: Madura 1985-86

BrianB

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Posted: Oct 16, 2011 04:23 PM  (Msg. 14 of 19)         

bigskytruder,

Do you have the specs on your new handle bars: Overall width, Pull back, etc... Suzuki's website does not specify this information. Your install looks great. You did an excellent job documenting the replacement. I plan on installing new bars after i install a new seat.

Thanks
Brian


BugSpatteredJacket

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Posted: Mar 24, 2012 04:15 PM  (Msg. 15 of 19)         

Thanks, brilliant step by step instructions! Much appreciated!



BIKEMIKE

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Posted: Jun 16, 2012 01:23 PM  (Msg. 16 of 19)         

I am trying to change my bars a grips. What grips did you use? And how do you get the grip to fit on to the plastic throttle sleeve? I had purchased some 1" grips but cant get it over that sleeve!


bigskytruder

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Posted: Jun 16, 2012 01:27 PM  (Msg. 17 of 19)         

Quote:
BIKEMIKE wrote:
I am trying to change my bars a grips. What grips did you use? And how do you get the grip to fit on to the plastic throttle sleeve? I had purchased some 1" grips but cant get it over that sleeve!



Check out this article for that information.

http://www.intruderalert.com/cafe/index.cfm?page=topic&topicID=168072


  RIDE EM SAFE  


CHECK YOUR SIX

sectorsight

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Posted: Apr 7, 2013 08:45 PM  (Msg. 18 of 19)         

i know 10 inches is the max for handlebar height without getting longer cables, but what about pullback with a 10 inch bar? would a 10 inch bar with 8 inch pullback be alright?


lovatobarry

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Last Bolt

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Posted: Nov 8, 2013 03:40 PM  (Msg. 19 of 19)         

Excellent   write up, I want to change my bars, and with your write up as a guide I feel much more confident about doing it. thanks
Barry

 

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